Cartier на Watches & Wonders 2014

[rc30]

Картье ослепляли на выставке роскошью своих ювелирных piece unique. Было их очень много, на разные вкусы и выглядели потрясающе.

















Кроме того, представили замечательную модель с азиатскими мотивами - PASHA DE CARTIER 42MM SKELETON DRAGON MOTIF:









Фотографиями это великолепие не передать, надо держать часы в руках.

Пресс-релиз:

An inspired creativity that introduces the world of Chinese imagery into Cartier Fine Watchmaking

Cartier invents a Manufacture mechanical movement skeletonised in the shape of a dragon – that fabulous and legendary creature, a symbol of power and prestige that has been a guest of the Cartier menagerie ever since the Maison established its first links with China back in 1888. Visible though its sapphire crystal, the calibre 9617 MC with manual winding is exhibited like a creature of fantasy, set with 233 diamonds, with a marquise-cut tsavorite on the front and entirely engraved on the back. This dragon-motif skeleton perpetuates a savoir-faire initiated with the first bridges carved in the form of Roman numerals in the Santos 100 watch, the model that established skeletonised movements as one of the most emblematic features of Cartier watchmaking.
This precious skill is coupled with an aesthetic that distinguishes the Pasha de Cartier watch, one of the great classic models of the Maison, with its instantly recognizable characteristic features: a serrated screw-down winding crown, adorned with a brilliant-cut diamond; “gun screw” attachments and an indented bracelet. These three jewellery watch versions are equipped with a case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, available in one version with a black alligator-skin strap, and two others which feature an articulated bracelet of white gold links set with brilliantcut or baguette-cut diamonds.

Характеристики:

PASHA DE CARTIER 42MM SKELETON DRAGON MOTIF WATCH SKELETONISED BRIDGES FORMING THE SHAPE OF A DRAGON, CALIBRE 9617 MC

CASE: WHITE GOLD
DIAMETER: 42 MM
CROWN: ADORNED WITH A FACETED BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMOND
CRYSTAL: SAPPHIRE
CASE BACK: SAPPHIRE
DIAL: DRAGON MOTIF FORMED WITH THE BRIDGES OF THE MOVEMENT
HANDS: DIAMOND-SHAPED IN BLUED-STEEL
CASE THICKNESS: 9.9 MM
WATER-RESISTANCE: 30 METRES / 3 BAR / 100 FEET
MOVEMENT: MECHANICAL MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING, CALIBRE 9617 MC,
HOURS AND MINUTES COMPLICATION WITH SKELETONISED BRIDGES FORMING THE SHAPE OF A DRAGON
CASING-UP DIMENSIONS: 15½ LINES, OR 34.18 MM
TOTAL DIMENSIONS: 34.78 MM
THICKNESS: 5.30 MM
NUMBER OF JEWELS: 20
NUMBER OF PARTS: 171
BALANCE: 28,800 VIBRATIONS/HOUR
POWER RESERVE: APPROX. 3 DAYS
AVAILABLE IN THREE DIFFERENT VERSIONS: INDIVIDUALLY NUMBERED EDITION WITH BLACK ALLIGATOR-SKIN STRAP, DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE FOLDING BUCKLE IN 18-CARAT WHITE GOLD SET WITH BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS; LIMITED EDITION OF 20 INDIVIDUALLY NUMBERED TIMEPIECES WITH BRACELET IN RHODIUM-FINISH WHITE GOLD SET WITH BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS; LIMITED EDITION OF 10 INDIVIDUALLY NUMBERED TIMEPIECES WITH BRACELET IN RHODIUM-FINISH WHITE GOLD SET WITH BAGUETTE-CUT DIAMONDS.

Это уже пресс-релизовая фотография механизма:



MECHANICAL MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING, CALIBRE 9617 MC, HOURS AND MINUTES
COMPLICATION WITH SKELETONISED BRIDGES FORMING THE SHAPE OF A DRAGON
CASING-UP DIMENSIONS: 15½ LINES, OR 34.18 MM
TOTAL DIMENSIONS: 34.78 MM
THICKNESS: 5.30 MM
NUMBER OF JEWELS: 20
NUMBER OF PARTS: 171
BALANCE: 28,800 VIBRATIONS/HOUR
POWER RESERVE: APPROX. 3 DAYS

Еще одной новинкой стала модель с весьма интересной реализацией второго часового пояса, выпущенная в линейке Rotonde de Cartier.







Пресс-релиз:

A dynamic creativity with three new small complications that are every bit as ingenious as their ‘grand’ counterparts

With its 42 mm diameter, the Rotonde de Cartier watch launches a collection of men’s small complication models that combines a second time-zone, a day/night indication, a large date and small seconds. Fully integrated, the new 1904-FU MC self-winding movement has been developed over a period of several years at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. A first in Cartier watchmaking, this movement groups together the setting of all its complications in one single push-piece. This double achievement revitalises the world of watch complications, giving the ability to display their multiple functions within 42 mm of aesthetic elegance and cutting-edge technology. With its Roman numerals, its winding crown set with a cabochon, its apple-shaped hands and its “rail-track” minute circle, this watch asserts a formal classicism built around the defining signs of identity of the Cartier watch. This elegance is reinforced yet again by the contrast in its dials between pink or white gold and a silvered flinqué or blue guilloché finish.

Моим любимым вариантом все таки стал синий:

ROTONDE DE CARTIER SECOND
TIME-ZONE DAY/NIGHT WATCH
CASE IN 18-CARAT WHITE GOLD
CROWN: 18-CARAT WHITE GOLD
SET WITH A SAPPHIRE CABOCHON
DIAMETER: 42 MM
BLUE FLINQUÉ DIAL
HANDS: APPLE-SHAPED
CASE THICKNESS: 11.96 MM
CASE BACK: SAPPHIRE
BRACELET: ALLIGATOR SKIN
FOLDING BUCKLE: DOUBLE-ADJUSTABLE IN 18-CARAT WHITE GOLD
SELF-WINDING MOVEMENT 1904-FU MC

Всего 3 варианта: розовое золото, белое золото и сталь.

Новый калибр:





CALIBRE 1904-FU MC
SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT, CALIBRE 1904-FU MC, HOURS, MINUTES,
RETROGRADE SECOND TIME-ZONE, DAY/NIGHT INDICATION, LARGE DATE, SMALL SECONDS
CASING-UP DIAMETER: 11½ LINES, OR 25.6 MM
THICKNESS: 5.2 MM
NUMBER OF JEWELS: 27
NUMBER OF PARTS: 230
BALANCE: 28,800 VIBRATIONS / HOUR
POWER RESERVE: APPROX. 48 HOURS

Стенд Картье всегда был переполнен народом....







...поэтому упустил я случай посмотреть еще одну представленную модель, хотя, судя по пресс-релизу, она должна была быть там - Mystery clock with topaz dial.

A precious creativity enhanced by the secrets of a mystery clock with a dial made of fine stone

Mystery clocks make up an entire chapter of Cartier history and are a genuine enigma. What allows the hands to float in the centre of a dial that is totally transparent? Where are the mechanisms and the movement? These “miracles of timekeeping”, as they were called by the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton in 1925, are the fruit of collaboration between Louis Cartier and an exceptional clockmaker, Maurice Coüet. The latter took his inspiration from the clocks of the famous illusionist and Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, father of modern magic. The principle, which he adapted and developed, is based on an ingenious concept: the hands are not directly linked to the movement, but are attached to two crystal discs fitted with serrated metal edges. Activated by the movement, which is usually housed in the clock’s base, these discs then turn the hands, one for the minutes hand and the other for the hours hand. So that the illusion is perfect, the edges of the discs are concealed by the hour circle.
To mark the 2014 edition of Watches & Wonders, Cartier perpetuates this timekeeping miracle by replacing the transparency of rock crystal with the brilliance of natural topaz. The abstract appearance and design of this unique timepiece is reinforced by Cartier through the use of contrasting materials in the form of silver obsidian, onyx and opaque ruby.

Ну и в заключение скажу, что мне очень повезло, т.к. презентацию новинок для меня проводила Кароль Форестье, легенда часового мира, начинавшая в Улиссе и Рено и Папи, человек носящий титул "Часовщик года", директор департамента разработки механизмов Cartier.



Времени, к сожалению, было не так много, но удалось и посмотреть часы и пообщаться. В частности, учитывая общий тренд выставки, я спросил про ее видение женских коллекций у Картье, на что она ответила, что Картье идет своим курсом, горизонт разработки новинок составляет около 5 лет и пока не произошло ничего экстраординарного, что заставило бы компанию резко корректировать свои планы. Разумеется, компания учитывает региональные предпочтения клиентов, это касается и материала корпуса, и отделки, общей эстетики моделей. В отношении выставки Watches&Wonders Кароль сказала, что эта выставка безусловна важна, дает возможность общения с потребителями, да и проходит на очень важном с точки зрения продаж рынке. Но, тем не менее, для нее важнейшим событием года остается SIHH и основные инновации она продолжает готовить к Женеве. А идей у нее хватит и на две выставки)))